It’s that time of year again! Perhaps one of the most exciting times of year for the lawn care fanatics, only second to that first mow after winter. As the days begin to get shorter and cooler temps begin to emerge, now is the time to take the steps for a healthy lawn next spring. Here we go through a comprehensive guide for how to best prepare your lawn for winter and beyond.
Taking some more off the top: Cut your lawn shorter
Continue mowing your lawn regularly. In fact, you may find that you have to mow more frequently, similar to late spring and early summer when you may find yourself mowing twice a week. As you get towards the end of summer and into the beginning of fall you will want to adjust the cutting height gradually to shorter and shorter with each mow. We generally recommend about 0.5 inches per week until the grass is around 2 to 2.5 inches tall. This helps prepare the lawn for additional lawn maintenance including dethatching, aeration, and overseeding. It also helps prevent matting under the snow and reduces the risk of fungal diseases during the winter.
Clear the Debris: Raking and Mulching
This is where there is a bit of a differing of opinions. Some people think that mulching the leaves is best which helps provide the lawn with additional nutrients to help it grow. Others feel that too many leaves and other debris can stifle the line lead to less than ideal growth or increased risk of fungal disease.
Good raking and removal of any debris that may have accumulated over the summer such as leaves and twigs helps clear the way for the next steps in the process. It can help eliminate any potential haven for insects or other pests that can be detrimental to your lawn. It also allows good soil contact with any seeds or fertilizers you may use. This gives your lawn the best chance to grow hearty roots to help it survive the winter.
Dethatching: Giving the lawn room to breathe
Lawns need a little breathing room to grow. Thatch is a layer of dead grass and other organic material that builds up between the grass and the soil over time. Too thick of a layer of thatch can prevent water, air, and nutrients from reaching your soil. Dethatching is the process whereby this layer is reduced. A thin thatch layer is normal, so dethatching is not always necessary and rarely needs to be done every year. If your lawn feels spongy or appears to be thinning, it may be a sign it is time to dethatch. The fall is a great time to dethatch as the grass is still actively growing but out of the stress of the summer heat.
Dethatching can be done in several ways. The simplest and cheapest method is to use a manual rake. There are several different options, from plastic yard rakes that you would use for your leaves to a garden rake with metal prongs or even rakes designed for deeper dethatching that allow you to pull up the deepest layers of thatch. This rake (Baraystus Thatch Rake) is a perfect option for someone looking for a tool to best get down into the thickest layers of your lawn.
This can be a good option if you have a small area to cover, but can become tiring and labor intensive if you have a large lawn. In those instances, you may want to consider a power dethatcher. A popular option is the corded electric dethatcher by Sun Joe. A 5 position height adjustment helps you dial in to the exact depth needed to best treat your lawn.
If you have a very large lawn, especially if you have a rideable mower, a tow dethatcher could also be an option. The Agri-Fab 40 inch tine tow dethatcher is an excellent option with a universal hitch to fit most tractors.
Whichever method you choose, you’ll likely be left with large amount of debris to clean up. Use a rake or lawn sweeper to collect the dethatched material which can then be composted or discarded according to local regulations.
Aerate for better lawn health
Fall is the perfect time to aerate your lawn. Core aeration involves removing small plugs of grass and soil, which helps to alleviate soil compaction. This improves water, air, and nutrient flow to the roots. It can be especially helpful in areas with heavy foot traffic.
Like dethatching, there are several options for aeration. This manual lawn core aerator can be a cost effective option for small areas, although like manual dethatching, may not be suitable for larger areas. For larger lawns you will want to use a power core aerator. These can usually be rented for the day or half day from tool companies or hardware stores.
Overseed for a thicker lawn
Fall is the optimal time to spread grass seed over your current lawn to thicken your grass and fill in bare spots. After you have mowed the lawn shorter, dethatched, and aerator, it is time to prepare for putting down more grass seed.
Consider the possible options. Ideally pick a blend of grasses rather than a single variety. A grass seed that is a mixture of varieties (such as Kentucky blue grass, tall fine fescue) will give your lawn the best chance to be resistant to varying temperatures, pests, and other lawn stressors.
After you have picked a grass seed, spread the seed using a spreader. Be sure to follow the seeds recommended seeding rate to avoid seeding too heavily or too lightly. Ideally, spread half the see in one direction (north to south) and the other half perpendicular (east to west). This helps avoid missed spots and ensure an even distribution of grass seed.
Fertilizer for new grass seed
After spreading the seed, use a fertilizer to provide the grass with the nutrients needed for germination. Be sure to pick a starter fertilizer, which is specially formulated for these purposes. Generally they have a higher phosphorous content, which is thought to enhance deep root growth.
Water frequently for seed germination
Proper watering is critical to allow the seeds to germinate and to grow successfully.
During the first 2 weeks while the seed is germinating, water lightly 2 to 3 times per day. Be cautious to not waterlog the soil or to cause the seed to run off with the water. Ideally, the soil should remain damp at all times so water in short but frequent intervals. Morning, early afternoon, and late afternoon are good times to water.
After about 2 weeks once the seedlings have sprouted, cut back to watering once a day. Gradually reduce the frequency of watering of the next 2 weeks until you are back to your regular watering schedule.